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Viktor Orbán's grip on the 'Hungarian Sea', a popular summer destination

Photo: Attila Kisbenedek Agence France-Presse Lake Balaton welcomes 2.8 million visitors each year, the vast majority of whom are Hungarians. But statistics show a decline in tourism, against a backdrop of gentrification of the lake and soaring prices.

Andras Rostovanyi – Agence France-Presse

Posted at 8:09 am

  • Europe

The Balaton, the largest lake in Central Europe, serves as the “Hungarian sea” and attracts families every summer. But its freely accessible beaches and popular campsites are gradually being supplanted by private spaces.

This is enough to make the local population grind their teeth, some seeing it as the influence of the nationalist Prime Minister Viktor Orbán, accused in 14 years in power of monopolizing entire sections of the economy with his close circle.

Peter Karpati has been selling ice cream for nearly 40 years in the port of Balatonföldvar and has seen the 235 kilometres of shoreline transformed by the construction of five-star hotels and residential complexes.

In front of his shack, the septuagenarian denounces “the greed that is slowly eating away at the lake and leading it to ruin”. “That's what worries us,” he confides.

Viktor Orbán's grip on the 'Hungarian Sea', a popular summer destination

Photo: Attila Kisbenedek Agence France-Presse Peter Karpati has been selling ice cream for nearly 40 years on the banks of Lake Balaton.

According to him, the city hall is “wasting money on “absurd” real estate projects. He himself, “human as he is,” agreed to move his shop in exchange for a big check, to make way for someone he describes as “a big entrepreneur in the Orbán system.”

There are 2.8 million visitors every year, the vast majority of whom are Hungarians. But statistics show a decline in overnight stays in June compared to a year earlier even though total spending increased, against a backdrop of gentrification of the lake and soaring prices.

50 properties

The anti-corruption NGO K-Monitor lists more than 50 properties owned by businessmen close to Mr Orbán through complex arrangements.

AFP, which managed to reach the prime minister's son-in-law, Istvan Tiborcz, by telephone, was unable to independently verify the current state of his assets.

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Calls out “misleading allegations” about him, and confirmed that he had made investments around the lake in the past. lake, but claims to no longer own anything there today.

Viktor Orbán's grip on the 'Hungarian Sea', a popular summer destination

Photo: Attila Kisbenedek Agence France-Presse The 235 kilometers of shores of Lake Balaton are being transformed with the construction of five-star hotels and residential complexes.

The government is distributing funds for tourism development projects. And it does not hesitate to endorse legislative changes to allow the construction of controversial programs, accuses Karoly Herenyi, president of an association that fights to preserve the area.

On a popular beach, he shows a marina unfinished because of a legal battle.

The courts have stopped the construction site twice, citing the lack of public consultation and environmental impact assessment. But the municipality, led by the ruling Fidesz party, changed local regulations and work was allowed to restart.

Laszlone Szabo, a 46-year-old schoolteacher, complains that “this port is blocking the view a bit” and encroaching on their holiday destination. “Where we have spent our summers for years and where the children have grown up,” she said, adding that she had signed a petition to protest.

The town hall did not respond to requests from AFP.

“New aristocracy”

“If you can change the law as you wish, then no beach in Balaton is safe,” warns Mr. Herenyi.

He sees in the current transformations “a strong political will to bring about a new aristocracy”, as was the case 100 years ago when the place began to become popular.

A holiday resort during the communist period of USSR leader Nikita Khrushchev and Cuban President Fidel Castro, Lake Balaton has seen the growth of many Soviet-style buildings.

But after the democratic transition in the 1990s, the authorities promised to put a stop to the real estate fever… which has picked up again in recent years.

A glimmer of hope for activists keen to preserve affordable family tourism, Fidesz lost ground in the municipal elections in June.

In the city from Keszthely, nicknamed the capital of Balaton, the party was defeated at the polls for the first time since 2006.

New mayor Gergely Toth, a 54-year-old alternative economist, has promised to listen and ensure “sustainable development.”

When he takes office in October, his first action will be symbolic: he will dismantle a gate erected by a property developer to block public access to the local beach.

An illegal practice that is now common on the shores of Lake Balaton.

Teilor Stone

By Teilor Stone

Teilor Stone has been a reporter on the news desk since 2013. Before that she wrote about young adolescence and family dynamics for Styles and was the legal affairs correspondent for the Metro desk. Before joining Thesaxon , Teilor Stone worked as a staff writer at the Village Voice and a freelancer for Newsday, The Wall Street Journal, GQ and Mirabella. To get in touch, contact me through my teilor@nizhtimes.com 1-800-268-7116