Foie gras, smoked fish… between traditions and pleasures, what does the French Christmas menu really consist of ?

Sur la table de Noël des Français, il y aura inévitablement du foie gras et du saumon fumé. SolStock/Getty Images

When foie gras seems essential for some, others are especially considering not missing their oyster tasting. Everyone has their own preferences when it comes to sitting down to celebrate Christmas. A few days before Christmas Eve, we decipher the contents of the menu to see how the French combine tradition and indulgence.

It's the eternal question that comes up in any discussion a few days before Christmas Eve: “and you, what do you eat during the holidays ?”.

The question is all the more justified as it is part of a tense economic context marked by the easing of inflation and the desire of consumers to treat themselves during this holiday season. Many studies published in recent weeks have highlighted their propensity to find a compromise between generosity and a tight budget, hence the need to anticipate purchases as during Black Friday and to find good deals, in accordance with the analysis of Shopfully/Offerista Group.

A basket of 136.42 euros

At all costs, the French remain vigilant about the prices of holiday products. According to the calculations made by panellist NielseniQ for France Bleu, a Christmas basket of 12 traditional foods costs 136.42 euros this year, which is a receipt down eight euros compared to last year.

Specifically, inside there is turkey, foie gras, smoked salmon, chocolate, chestnuts, champagne, panettone, dried fruits, blinis, frozen scallops and apples with hazelnuts. The good news is the drop in the prices of turkey and foie gras, by 25% and 14% respectively.

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Foie gras

The second dish thus has a very strong chance of appearing on the New Year's Eve table since 69% of French people already knew at the end of November that they would serve it, according to a CSA study for the Interprofession du foie gras (Cifog)*. Foie gras embodies this precious pleasure that we offer ourselves when the holiday season arrives, 83% of French people recognize. And this, even if they did not deprive themselves of buying some during the year: sales have in fact increased by 5% in volume during the first ten months of the year.

Nearly three-quarters of French people (73%) consider foie gras to be the Christmas dish par excellence, successively ahead of smoked salmon (68%) and the Yule log (67%). A privileged place confirmed by the data firm Kantar, which estimates that one in four households buy foie gras during the end-of-year festivities. According to the analyst, 400g of it is eaten per year per household.

Smoked fish

The survey of purchases during the 2023 holiday season confirms this other must-have: smoked fish. While more and more observers are highlighting the success of smoked trout, this section, which often supplies the starter of the Christmas menu, is frequented by more than half of families (51.4%). Smoked salmon would thus be considered essential by 69% of consumers, according to a CSA survey carried out for the Entreprises du Traiteur Frais**.

Even if their prices increase severely during the holidays, other seafood products are not absent. According to Kantar, shellfish are purchased by 32% of households. The French would actually have a preference for oysters (62%) and then shellfish (56%), if we are to believe the CSA/ETF study.

Featuring less often the recipes of chefs suggested during the festive period, charcuterie starters are nevertheless well chosen by a significant number of consumers who are fond of them, in this case 29%. We are talking for example about pâté croûte, saucisson brioche or boudin blanc.

And the desserts ?

As for desserts, there are two camps. First, those who prefer to put on the apron for the occasion. 26.9% of households buy pastry aids to design the log. And then there are the others (21.5%) who choose to serve a frozen dessert.

*The CSA survey for Cifog was conducted from November 27 to December 4 among 1,007 individuals representative of the French population aged 18 and over.

**CSA survey conducted for the Entreprises du Traiteur Frais (ETF), from August 28 to September 4, 2024 among a representative sample of 1,011 French people aged 18 and over.