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In the pastry shops of Montpellier, for Christmas, the Yule log is always a hit

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Kindly feminist logs at Lume in the Gares district. Midi Libre – CODO

It's been eight years now that Gabriel Duthel has been delighting the taste buds of gourmets. Midi Libre – CODO

This year, Clara Jung is offering three high-quality logs. Midi Libre – CODO

Baptiste Thiery's beautiful cakes are to be seen and tasted on rue du Clos-René. Midi Libre – CODO

At the Palais Saint-Lazare, no fewer than eight Yule logs (including two iced ones) await end-of-year diners. Midi Libre – CODO

This year, a close-up of five pastry chefs from Clapas who are offering a colorful and flavorful selection of the famous and traditional Yule log. A list that is far from exhaustive, but whose modest ambition is to give an overview of the creativity of these everyday urban artisans. Come on, let's eat! And happy holidays!

1. At Lume, the Yule log is meant to be feminist

Recently opened, Lume is a unique place, moored on the edge of rue Lamartine (Gares district). Because here, no store (yet ?) but a lab that looks out nicely onto the artery. Inside, Lucy Fleischer is full of ideas to create her bûches, among other pastries only sold to order. For the holidays, the former childminder offers cakes with kindly feminist names. Such as La Cass’tagneuse (candied blackcurrant, chestnut cream and chestnut biscuit).

But also La Pista’queen (pistachio, bitter almond and mandarin), inspired by a Sicilian ice cream. Or the Amazone Amarena (Madagascar chocolate mousse, whipped tonka bean ganache, amarena cherries and soft cocoa biscuit).

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2. At Gabriel's, the log takes a
trip to the land of taste buds

Here, as every year, is a double occasion to rejoice for Gabriel Duthel, the pastry chef with the eponymous name, who has a shop on Boulevard Louis-Blanc (at number 16). Because it has been eight years since he opened his shop. A pastry shop that was recently expanded and reopened for two weeks in its new format.

And then there are, of course, the preparations related to the end-of-year celebrations. Like with the Pirouette (milk chocolate mousse on a peanut crunch). Or Bahamas (Madagascar vanilla mousse, mango and raspberry cream on its coconut financier biscuit). But also: La Banquise (with chestnut cream mousse, candied chestnut and clementine) and Douceur Pécan (vanilla mousse, caramel cream and pecan on its pecan brownie).

3. Vanille Kanake chez Clara Jung

Three Yule logs are on the menu this year for the young entrepreneur Clara Jung (who notably spent some time at La Réserve Rimbaud). First, there is the Léon. A fine construction built on a brownie, reinforced by a crunchy praline and flanked by pecan nuts. With, in addition, fleur de sel, New Caledonian vanilla ganache. All wrapped in a 55% dark chocolate mousse.

Following this one are Azalée (soft biscuit, crunchy Sicilian pistachio praline, intense ganache and fleur de sel, citrus confit center) and Cassia (soft biscuit with roasted peanuts, exotic fruit confit center, light salted butter caramel mousse, whipped peanut ganache). In short, we take plenty. As much in the eyes as in the taste buds.

4. Chez Baptiste: Ah, Les Bo Gâteaux..!

For these holidays, Baptiste Thiéry (rue du Clos-René, between the train stations and the Comédie) has imagined a trio of bûches, nicely presented by Sabrina Allard. The first (La Royale) is a dark chocolate mousse with a crunchy praline.

Next comes La Valencia, whose structure rests on an orange mousse, flanked by kumquat inserts and combined with a dark chocolate ganache. Finally comes La Mont Blanc. And whose construction is broken down into a chestnut cream, whipped cream, raspberry and brown sugar biscuit (the famous speculoos), vanilla mousse and strawberry and raspberry compote combined with lime. All this on a crispy speculoos.

5. At Le Palais Saint-Lazare,
we see the Yule log in a big way

In the shop located along the eponymous avenue, we see the holidays in a big way. Think: no less than eight Yule logs are offered to round off meals this end of the year. In the refrigerated cabinets, six pastry variants, two ice creams, are waiting.

We might as well write it down: there will not be enough space to specify the finery of the Marron-Noisette, Feuilletine, Citron-Framboise, Clémentine, Casse-Noisettes, Crème au Beurre, Nougat or Sweetness. The best thing, perhaps, is to start early so that you can form an accurate opinion.

Teilor Stone

Teilor Stone has been a reporter on the news desk since 2013. Before that she wrote about young adolescence and family dynamics for Styles and was the legal affairs correspondent for the Metro desk. Before joining Thesaxon , Teilor Stone worked as a staff writer at the Village Voice and a freelancer for Newsday, The Wall Street Journal, GQ and Mirabella. To get in touch, contact me through my teilor@nizhtimes.com 1-800-268-7116

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