Lozère in winter (2/4): The Aubrac plateau reveals its raw beauty

When there is no snow, Aubrac is ideal for cycling. Midi Libre – Manon Baffie

The Romanesque church of Nasbinals dates from the 14th century. It is listed as a Historic Monument. It is an important crossing point for pilgrims on the road to Santiago de Compostela who arrive from Le Puy-en-Velay and make their way to Conques. Midi Libre – Manon Baffie

The plateau is full of water in all its forms. The Route des Lacs, from the Col de Bonnecombe to Nasbinals, allows you to discover four of them in 17 kilometers: the Lac des Salhiens, the Lac de Souveyrols, the Lac de Saint-Andéol and the Lac de Born. Midi Libre – Manon Baffie

About thirty meters high, the Déroc waterfall is best known for its basalt organs. A cave is located behind the waterfall. It can be reached by a walk of about a kilometer. Midi Libre – Manon Baffie

Downstream from the Pont des Nègres, on the banks of the Plèches, there is a geological curiosity that attracts many visitors: the basalt causeway of the giants, a vestige of volcanic activity. Midi Libre – Manon Baffie

The famous Aubrac cows that usually populate the pastures have returned to the stable with the arrival of the snow. A statue is nevertheless visible in Nasbinals. Midi Libre – Manon Baffie

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Located in the commune of Prinsuéjols, the Château de la Baume is known as “the little Versailles of Gévaudan” because of its richly decorated interior. Its current appearance dates back to the 17th century, but its existence was mentioned as early as the 13th. In winter, however, visitors will have to be content to admire it from afar: the château is private and can only be visited from April to All Saints' Day. Midi Libre – Manon Baffie

Despite its harsh climate, Aubrac attracts many visitors in both summer and winter. The region owes its success to the vastness of its landscapes and its remarkable built heritage.

There is no season for visiting Aubrac. Whatever the time of year, the Regional Natural Park surprises with the uniqueness of its landscapes, shaped by the breeding of the famous Aubrac cows. The pastures stretch as far as the eye can see. They are dotted with blocks of granite or basalt, evidence of ancient volcanic activity. Water is also omnipresent: streams, waterfalls, glacial lakes and other wetlands add to the charm of the plateau.
Aubrac also has its paths: that of Urbain V, the tour of the Aubrac mountains and of course Santiago de Compostela. They are explored on foot, sometimes by bike. In Nasbinals, it is not uncommon to come across entire groups of pilgrims, even in winter.
However, they are not the only ones staying in Aubrac.

A gourmet stop at the buron du Ché

Going to Aubrac without tasting an aligot ? Unthinkable. To enjoy an exceptional setting, head to the buron – the old shepherd's shelter that was used to make cheese in the summer. Most of these buildings covered with slate have since been converted into restaurants. The one at Ché, a few kilometers from Nasbinals, opened its doors in 1984. An idea of ​​Christian Béssière, a breeder, and his wife, Arlette. "We were the pioneers on the Aubrac", insists the restaurateur, Arlette Béssière. The succession is in any case assured with their grandchildren, Victor and Jules, who will take over the restoration and breeding respectively.

To accompany the specialty based on fresh tomme and potatoes, the buron offers grilled sausage, a piece of beef, duck confit, tripe and even calf's head. Enough to leave feeling full and ready to face the winter cold.

The establishment, with a capacity of one hundred covers, offers a panoramic view of the plateau.

A formula whose success is undeniable: the Buron du Ché serves around 15,000 covers a year! Although attendance is lower than in the summer, the restaurant remains open all year round, with the exception of the month of January.

The landscapes, gastronomy and winter sports are all reasons to go there outside the tourist season. Like Pauline Dages-Papillon, who came to spend a week's vacation with her husband and three children. “We wanted to celebrate Christmas in the snow.” The family from the Lot went to the Déroc waterfall. “We had already seen it two years ago in the summer. We wanted to see what it looks like in winter,” explains the mother. “The weather is nice and there are a few fewer people.”