Perpetual Halloween

Photo: François Sunny Duval “Cats for Kamala,” reads this poster decorating a house in New Orleans.

Is there a North American city as fascinating as it is frightening?? New Orleans is a treasure trove of hundreds of gems in every corner: untamed, lush and fragrant flora, colorful houses and buildings with striking architecture, magnificent human mixes unique to this city, all reflected in every dish, every word, every note played by its inhabitants.

Darkness falls, and we change dimensions: « watch your step“, as they say. The night makes New Orleans' beauty shimmer in the flickering light of the gas streetlights. Anything can happen, anything does. The occasional fog certainly won't help you deal with the mixture of fear and mad love that suddenly takes over all your senses.

As you step off the plane, the contrast between the intense air conditioning of the airport and the humid heat outside is striking. And very much like New Orleans, full of contradictions and extremes: between the encampments under the I-10 and the enormous shacks of Esplanade Avenue, the love of religion and rather “pagan” things, the conservative people and those who are very liberal. And of course, those who vote red or prefer blue.

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Discreet Republicans

In small villages and remote corners, red is very present. On the other hand, there is no apparent sign of Republican support in the city, while several signs Harris for President proudly adorn some houses. More generally, citizens and tourists avoid the subject. To avoid controversy, no doubt. Each person approached was fearful and optimistic at the same time. A bar employee we met says he keeps his opinions to himself. No question of risking shocking customers, losing sales, tips, friendships. Jonny, a musician, admits to being very afraid of the outcome of the elections. He even scheduled a therapy session for the next day (!). When asked “as a woman, aren’t you afraid for your rights ?”, an eternally Republican acquaintance simply answers “the other options are worse”. For Kristin, who shed tears when voting in advance for Kamala, this is not just a political debate, but rather the beginning of a fight to protect human rights, acquired at the cost of decades of activism. One thing is certain: here, people prefer to enjoy the moment. With all their magnificent joie de vivre.

Photo: François Sunny Duval The residents of this house in the Mid-City neighborhood of New Orleans clearly show their preference for Democrats.

This week was Halloween, a fascinating spectacle for the eyes. Houses are decorated well in advance, as much as for Christmas. And every Louisianan has his or her own collection of costumes, accumulated over a lifetime of dressing up for any occasion: parties, parades, Mardi Gras. It’s a bit like Halloween all the time here. And every reason to celebrate is a good one. As if life had to be celebrated every day, since it is often in danger. The risks of hurricanes, floods, accidents, illnesses and murders are frequent. So, one celebrates one’s existence with one’s whole being.

Death is also highlighted, by funeral processions and their processions with black umbrellas. Or right after Halloween on the Day of the Dead (Día de los Muertos), where the beauty of the makeup is even more captivating. We honor the deceased of the past year by singing and dancing.

Photo: François Sunny Duval Day of the Dead in St. Roch, New Orleans

United by love

Music and dancing are everywhere, in the streets, in the houses and especially in the multitude of bars. Tourist establishments in the French Quarter (the Vieux Carré), interesting, but never as culturally important as the neighborhood bars, where everyone comes to meet, exchange, share. And eat: several places offer the famous rice and beans in a cauldron placed on a table. Or, a person from the neighborhood arrives with a barbecue and cooler, to sell stuff to make a few bucks.

A large part of the population lives off tourism and restaurants, sometimes holding down a few jobs to make a good living. Musicians are hired wherever there is work and an audience. And if necessary, playing on the street in the French Quarter is an option that can pay off, with dollars deposited in the tip hat.

Local resilience is legendary. No matter the outcome of the presidential election, let’s hope that the residents can continue to live each moment to the fullest, united in their love for New Orleans, “the land of dreams”.