In Sao Teotonio, a town in the southwest of Portugal, it is immigrants from South Asia who keep the greenhouses alive and, in the streets, Nepalese and Indian restaurants are more numerous than the local brands.
Mesch Khatri, a 36-year-old Nepalese, works collecting red fruits, the region's main economic activity. His wife Ritu, 28, runs the Nepali café.
Their eldest son, seven years old, only speaks Portuguese, a little English but not Nepali.
This father arrived in Europe via Belgium but preferred to settle in Portugal. “There, it’s very difficult to get a residence permit. That’s why I came here. It’s easier to get papers,” he testifies.< /p>
Arrived in December 2012, he obtained his resident card in 2018 and Portuguese nationality in 2020.
Sao Teotonio , 9,000 inhabitants, is one of the sub-communes of Odemira which has seen its population increase by 13% in ten years.
Nepalese Ritu Khatri and her two children in her restaurant in Sao Teotonio, January 16, 2024 in Portugal © AFP – PATRICIA DE MELO MOREIRA
This repopulation was achieved thanks to the influx of agricultural labor from immigration, in a region hit by decades of demographic decline caused by rural exodus.
With one of the most open migration policies in Europe, Portugal has seen its foreign population double in five years, partly thanks to the arrival of migrants from South Asia. South came to work in agriculture, fishing or catering.
A movement encouraged by the socialist government in power since the end of 2015, but which could shift to the right after the elections of March 10.
– “Need them ” –
A little less than 500,000 in 2018, the number of foreigners reached one million last year, or a tenth of the population of the Iberian country, according to provisional data provided to AFP by the Government Agency for Integration, Migration and Asylum (Aima).
Indian immigrants work in an orchard in Carrazeda de Ansiaes, January 24, 2024 in northern Portugal © AFP – PATRICIA DE MELO MOREIRA
If Brazilians remain by far the largest immigrant contingent (some 400,000 nationals), Indians (58,000) and Nepalese (40,000) are already more numerous than residents from former colonies in Africa, like Cape Verde or Angola.
Also without historical links with Portugal, the Bangladeshis and the Pakistanis have also burst into the top 10 countries of 'origin.
“The main reason why Portugal has seen an increase in the number of immigrants in recent years is that it needs them,” summarizes the president of Aima, Luis Goes Pinheiro, stressing that he This is the country with the highest aging rate in Europe after Italy.
Far from the “sea of plastic” formed by the greenhouses of Sao Teotonio, in a remote region in the northwest of the country, Luis Carlos Vila also depends on foreign labor to pick his apples.
“There is no choice, the population is elderly and there are no more agricultural workers”, he explains.
Indian immigrant Happy Singh works in an orchard in Carrazeda de Ansiaes, northern Portugal, January 24, 2024 © AFP – PATRICIA DE MELO MOREIRA
In his orchards in Carrazeda de Ansiaes, six Indians are busy cutting trees. “I love Portugal. The money is good, the work is good, the future is good. In India there is no future,” said one of them, Happy Singh, in a hesitant English.
Legally, the boss uses recruitment companies to find his workers. At home, he finds a bit of his family history: “My father also had to leave his country to earn a living” in France.
– “Generous country” –
Even within the fishing community of Caxinas which, in the suburbs of Porto (north) embody the traditional Portuguese link with the sea, half of the crews are made up of Indonesians.
Captain José Luis Gomes (d) and an Indonesian fisherman aboard the trawler “O Fugitivo”, off the village of Caxinas, November 27, 2023 in Portugal © AFP – PATRICIA DE MELO MOREIRA
At the helm of his 20-meter trawler, José Luis Gomes, fishing boss like his father and grandfather, has resigned himself to the fact that the Portuguese have abandoned this difficult profession or left exercise it elsewhere for better salaries.
Recruited through shipowners' associations, the Javanese Saeful Ardani, 28, is on his fourth contract of 18 months aboard the “Fugitive”.
“The Indonesian fishermen who work here have no worries, he testifies. Our families are reassured since we are not in an illegal situation.”
Portugal, a country of emigration in the 20th century, had already become a country of immigration at the turn of the 21st.
In recent years, there has been “significant growth, with some new aspects”, comments Jorge Malheiros, migration specialist at the University of Lisbon.
“What whatever the indicator, it is one of the most generous countries” in terms of migration policy in Europe, explains the geographer.
Since 2007, Portuguese law allows for all those who declare work income to obtain papers – they no longer have to wait for extraordinary regularization processes.
Indonesian fishermen aboard the trawler “O Fugitivo”, off the village of Caxinas, November 27, 2023 in Portugal © AFP – PATRICIA DE MELO MOREIRA
Another major change in 2018, when the socialist government granted the right to regularization including to those who had not legally entered the territory.
< p>A new amendment introduced in 2022 even provides for a six-month temporary visa for foreigners looking for work.
– “More racism” –
“Portuguese laws are not perfect but they are better than those of many countries with backward policies,” says Timoteo Macedo, head of the Immigrant Solidarity association.
Muslims queue to enter a mosque in Lisbon, February 2, 2024 © AFP – PATRICIA DE MELO MOREIRA
If this legislation helps to avoid the tragedies of illegal crossings or the fear of expulsion as elsewhere in Europe, it does not prevent that in Portugal too, “there are some who make a lot of money on the backs of human misery”, he adds however.
Portuguese authorities have already dismantled several human trafficking networks in the Alentejo region, revealing in particular the substandard housing conditions reserved for certain agricultural workers.
Leaning at the counter of his café in Sao Teotonio, Mesch Khatri himself recognizes that the influx of immigrants poses new challenges for them.
“Before it was easier to earn our living, now there is more racism among the Portuguese. They don't like when people live ten or fifteen in a house or when they don't speak Portuguese”, continues his wife Ritu.
Nepalese and Portuguese flags in Ritu Khatri's restaurant on January 16, 2024 in Sao Teotonio, Portugal © AFP – PATRICIA DE MELO MOREIRA
A volunteer in the social store which adjoins a school support center welcoming around twenty children, only one of whom has a Portuguese first name, Julia Duarte observes a group of pre-teen girls and a boy who is learning to jump on his skateboard.< /p>
Originally from Alentejo, this 78-year-old Portuguese woman lived in Lisbon for a long time before settling in Sao Teotonio. “I told myself that I was going to enjoy my retirement in peace, then there was an avalanche” of migrant workers, she said.
“It was a lot of people and a lot of hassle, all looking for accommodation, work… then I realized that they are quiet people.”
– “Family reunification” –
Dedicated to helping immigrants, the NGO Taipa has refocused over the years on their integration in the region.< /p>
Children of immigrant parents take a Portuguese course organized by the NGO Taipa, on January 16, 2024 in Sao Teotonio, Portugal © AFP – PATRICIA DE MELO MOREIRA
“Ten or fifteen years ago, we were not ready for this, confides its manager Teresa Barradas. It is a very important challenge for a more closed community which was not used to such great cultural differences.”
Beyond that, “the main problem” for welcoming migrants remains the lack of housing, “especially for families”.
According to Portuguese law, they have the right to regroup and “this plays a very important role in dismantling prejudices because we see that our neighbors are an entire family whose children go to school with ours”, she argues.
The head of the agency for the reception of foreigners, Luis Goes Pinheiro, confirms: “Family reunification is extraordinarily important to guarantee full integration and the settlement of migrants, in particular in regions where the population density is very low”.
Born last fall after the dissolution of the former border police, the Aima agency inherited some 350,000 unprocessed regularization request files.
Muslims wait to enter a mosque in the Moaira district of Lisbon on February 2, 2024 in Portugal. © AFP – PATRICIA DE MELO MOREIRA
In the capital Lisbon, we see more bicycle delivery men or VTC drivers from South Asia.
On Friday, before prayer, hundreds of Muslims must now queue to enter one of the two mosques located in the alleys of Mouraria, the Moorish quarter of medieval times.
– “Rue du Bangladesh” –
Central axis of this part of old Lisbon, Rua do Benformoso has so many Bangladeshi shops and restaurants that it is nicknamed “Bangladesh Street”, says Yasir Anwar , a 43-year-old Pakistani resident here since 2010.
Nepalese Ritu Khatri and her two children in her restaurant in Sao Teotonio, January 16, 2024 in Portugal © AFP – PATRICIA DE MELO MOREIRA
Arriving without a visa after brief passages through Denmark and Norway, he was threatened with expulsion before obtaining his papers thanks to the legislative amendments of 2018.
After traveling the streets selling flowers in bars and restaurants, Mr. Anwar was hired by a restaurateur who taught him Portuguese gastronomy and language.
Today, he is waiting for Portuguese citizenship, which is normally possible after five years of legal residence, and hopes to bring his wife and two children.
“When I arrived there was nothing for us,” says this Immigrant Solidarity activist. Since then, “Portugal has become a good country for immigrants and welcomes them with open arms.”
Nepalese Ritu Khatri and her two children in her restaurant in Sao Teotonio, January 16, 2024 in Portugal © AFP – PATRICIA DE MELO MOREIRA
Opinion surveys show that “Portugal is among the European countries where the population does not identify immigration as one of the main problems of their daily life, contrary to what happens throughout the “Europe, and that its reaction to the migratory phenomenon remains positive”, confirms the president of Aima.
If the electoral polls predict a new surge of a party far right created in 2019, immigration is only seventh among the priorities of its program.
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