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Alcohol, and especially red wine, occupies a unique place in our cultural and gastronomic heritage. Its history dates back to the arrival of the Phocaeans in Marseille, more than 2,600 years ago, marking the beginning of a wine tradition that would transform our lands and our art of living. Even if the wines drunk by our ancestors in ancient times had little to do with those we consume today, red wine remains popular in our region. According to Statista, in 2022, 57% of French people preferred red over its white (40%), rosé (29%) or sparkling (26%) counterparts.
However, this has surely not escaped some of you, drinking red wine can give you a headache, not to mention a hangover in the strict sense of the term. A slightly less glorious phenomenon associated with drinking red wine, which can occur even without abuse. Where do these headaches come from??
The search for those responsible for these headaches has long focused attention on several compounds in red wine. Sulfites, since their mandatory mention on American labels in the 1990s, have long crystallized concerns. These are sulfur compounds naturally present in grapes, but they are also added to wine by winemakers for several reasons: to prevent the oxidation of the wine, to protect it from the proliferation of bacteria, and to ensure that it retains its aromas.
This suspicion quickly extended to other compounds such as biogenic amines (nitrogen compounds produced by certain bacteria present in wine) and tannins (molecules present in grapes that give the wine its structure, astringency, and ability to age), creating a veritable catalogue of alleged culprits. Yet these accusations rested on shaky foundations.
Examining the role of sulfites in our bodiesreveals a very different reality. The latter naturally produces 700 mg of sulfites daily, a quantity significantly higher than the 20 milligrams contained in a glass of wine. Sulfite oxidases, specialized enzymes, effectively ensure their transformation into sulfate, invalidating their presumed role in the onset of headaches. In addition, the equivalent presence of sulfites in white wines, rarely associated with headaches, further weakens this hypothesis.
Biogenic amines, compounds present in many fermented foods, have also been the subject of investigation. Although capable of causing headaches, their concentration in red wine remains too lowto explain the symptoms observed. As for tannins, their presence in other foods such as tea or chocolate, consumed without causing similar headaches, calls into question their direct involvement.
200% Deposit Bonus up to €3,000 180% First Deposit Bonus up to $20,000The real explanation lies in a biochemical interaction between alcohol and a specific phenolic compound: quercetin. It is a natural pigment of grapes, which plays a key role in the aromatic complexity of wines, bringing floral and fruity nuances; when the wine matures, this is released, which also gives it its color.
The metabolism of alcohol (ethanol) is carried out in a process in two distinct stages, each involving specific enzymatic mechanisms. First, ethanol is transformed into acetaldehyde, a potentially toxic molecule. The second step, catalyzed by the enzyme ALDH (aldehyde dehydrogenase), then converts this acetaldehyde into acetate, a substance that is harmless to the body.
This research published in 2023 in the journal Nature demonstrated that quercetin, particularly abundant in the skin of red grapes, specifically interferes with this second step by blocking the activity of ALDH. This discovery is the result of in vitro enzymatic analyses that assessed the impact of different phenolic compounds on ALDH activity. Quercetin glucuronide, the form in which quercetin is metabolized by the liver, was found to be the most potent inhibitor of this key enzyme.
This interaction causes an accumulation of acetaldehyde in the body, triggering a cascade of inflammatory events. This phenomenon not only explains the headaches, but also the facial flushing that some people experience after drinking red wine. Genetic variation in the effectiveness of ALDH between individuals also explains why some people are more sensitive to these effects than others.
On the other hand, quercetin alone, present in many foods such as apples, cabbages or capers, does not cause headaches. It is its association with alcohol that triggers the problematic mechanism. The quercetin content varies according to the exposure of the vines to the sun: sunnier grapes produce more. Lighter vintages, often from less exposed vines, could be a gentler alternative for sensitive people. If you are affected by this ailment, then avoid Bordeaux, Côtes du Rhône (especially Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre) and prefer fruity and light red wines. Pinot Noir, Gamay or Cabernet Francs from the Loire, for example. All in moderation, of course.
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